"...it doesn't overtly say, 'This is better', it just invites you to think about it" insists a spokesman for Sainsbury's 'Taste the Difference' range.

The supermarkets are quick to defend suggestions that their 2-tier approach leads us to question the level of quality of their standard range products.

The growth of supermarkets is traditionally based on the concept of high volume, low cost food and this concept is being challenged with the launch of own-label premium brands.

Marketing concept

The premium brands are based on a marketing concept. This concept is of low volume, high cost foods.

The concept is packaged with sophisticated appearances, enticing names and promises of extra quality.

"People like the idea that food need not be mass produced, even if it comes from a supermarket," confirms the PR consultancy hired by Sainsbury's to create the image for their 'Taste the Difference' range.

Biggest selling brand

'Taste the Difference' is now the biggest selling brand in Sainsbury's. It is bigger than Coca-Cola and Walkers, with annual sales of £340 million.

The Food Standards Agency views these products as no more than a form of in-store marketing.

" 'Premium' is a marketing term - there is little chance that consumers would be misled by such terms," explains Noel Griffin from the FSA's Food Labelling Standards division.

No taste guarantee

The consumers association, Which?, might argue with that. Their research shows that the higher prices do not guarantee better tasting food. The premium products scored higher than the standard ranges for only just over half the foods tasted.

"Weight for weight, the premium foods we checked cost on average 75 per cent more than the standard products, but they weren't always the tastier option," said Helen Parker, Editor of Which?

See our premium product price comparison

Waitrose is a UK supermarket that has a reputation for high quality food, but does not have a premium brand. It has established its name as the premium brand of supermarkets.

Marketing ploys they may be, but premium brands appear to be satisfying the consumers' appetite for quality food.

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